Gákti: 5 Styles of Sami Traditional Clothing in Finland

日本語

The Sami people today, like others in the Nordic countries, live modern lives in modern homes.

This is the same as how Japanese people no longer carry swords at their waists, nor do they tie their hair into chonmage or ichō-gaeshi topknots. And, of course, you won’t find salarymen routinely practicing shuriken during their lunch break.

Nevertheless, the Kimono and the Katana are cherished and highly respected as profound symbols of Japanese culture. The same is true for the Sami traditional garment, the Gákti.

In this article, we will provide an easy-to-understand explanation of the Gákti, the vital symbol of Sami culture.

　

　

Regional Identity Expressed in the Sami Gákti

When one hears the word “Sami,” one tends to think of a single, unified ethnic group. In reality, however, their lives and culture are incredibly diverse.

This diversity is most clearly expressed in the Sami Gákti.

At events where Sami people from different areas gather, the differences in design and ornamentation are immediately apparent based on their region of origin. This is because the design of the Gákti represents the history of the wearer’s region, village, and family.

For this reason, it is considered highly disrespectful to wear a Gákti from a different cultural area without understanding the symbolic meaning of its design.

According to Sami researcher Professor Lehtola, there are broadly five main Gákti designs in Finland:

Let’s take a closer look at each.

　

Gákti Basics: Men’s vs. Women’s Traditional Dress

Before we introduce the regional variations, let’s establish the fundamental components of the Gákti (Sámi traditional clothing).

Although the Gákti is highly diverse, its basic structural elements remain consistent:

　

	Men (Male Gákti)	Women (Female Gákti)
Garment Shape	Shorter tunic  (worn over trousers).	Longer dress or blouse + suspender dress (Skolt Sámi).
Collar/Cuff Decoration	regional colors  (red, blue, yellow, etc.)	frills, pleats, and ribbons
Headwear (Hats)	Four Winds Hat  / ear-flapped caps	Ear-flapped caps / the Horn Hat  (Skolt Sami)
Accessories	Wide woven belts  / leather belts with silver buttons  + Gloves (in winter).	Shawls/capes  + brooches/buttons.  Gloves (in winter).
Footwear	Nutukas/Nutukkaat (Traditional curved-toe leather shoes)

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The most pronounced regional differences are seen in the shape and decoration of the hats, the cut and style of the garments, and the specific colors used for decoration. Keeping these elements in mind will make the regional Gákti designs easier to understand.

　

　

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The Gákti Designs of the Finnish Sami Regions

Eanodat Style (Region: Enontekiö)

This is one of the most widely recognized Sami costumes. It is the attire of the people once known as the Mountain Sami within the North Sami group. The garments are richly adorned with detailed embroidered ribbons.

• Men wear tall hats that appear wrapped in ribbons, often featuring a four-pronged point on the top known as the “Four Winds Hat” (Čoarvečearret).

• Women wear red hats that cover their ears.

Due to the high level of color and ornamentation, this style is often featured on postcards and souvenirs aimed at tourists.

　

Anár / Aanaar Style (Region: Inari)

This is the attire of the Inari Sámi.

• Men’s clothing is primarily black. A distinguishing feature from the Ohcejohka style (introduced next) is the red hem of the tunic. They also wear the “Four Winds Hat.”

• Women’s clothing also appears to be predominantly black. The hem is decorated with a combination of red, yellow, and green. Traditionally, a white shawl is worn. The hat is red and includes ear flaps.

　

Ohcejohka Style (Region: Utsjoki)

This style is somewhat similar to the Inari Sámi attire.

• Men wear simple garments adorned with non-embroidered red ribbons with yellow stripes on the shoulders and chest. They wear the “Four Winds Hat.”

• Women wear simple skirts with red pleat decorations. They wear a red hat with ear flaps.

　

Skolt Style (Region: Sevettijärvi)

This attire is significantly different from those of the other regions, especially the women’s costume.

• It is characterized by bead embroidery for both men and women.
• Men wear a tunic similar to other Sami groups, but a distinctive feature of the Skolt Sámi male attire is the Korvalakki (an ear-flap hat).
• Women’s clothing strongly resembles the traditional costumes of the Karelian region, featuring a suspender skirt and a blouse, with a bead-embroidered belt worn at the waist. They also wear a “Horn Hat” (šaamšiǩ or related styles) that indicates their marital status.

　

Vuohčču Style (Region: Vuotso)

The Vuohčču style reflects a history of migration. Due to the border closures in the 19th century, people relocated from several border regions, resulting in a Gákti that carries the characteristics of the Mountain Sámi clothing (like Enontekiö).

• It is characterized by colorful decoration similar to the Inari Sámi style.

• Women’s hats resemble the Eanodat style, decorated with embroidered ribbons.

　

　

Summary

Here is a table summarizing the characteristics of the different Gákti styles.

Feature	Eanodat (Enontekiö)	Anár (Inari)	Ohcejohka (Utsjoki)	Skolt	Vuohčču (Vuotso)
Common Feature	Most highly decorated	Black base with colorful fabric trimming	Simple, red ribbon decoration	Bead embroidery	Mixed design
Women’s Hat	Red ear-flap hat (embroidered ribbon)	Red ear-flap hat (simple)	Red ear-flap hat (simple)	Horn Hat / Scarf (indicates marital status)	Red ear-flap hat (embroidered ribbon)
Women’s Dress	Tunic with ribbon decoration	Tunic with red/yellow/green trimming	Simple skirt with red pleat decoration	Blouse & Suspender Skirt (Kåhtt)	Similar to Anár style
Men’s Hat	Four Winds Hat	Four Winds Hat	Four Winds Hat	Ear-flap Hat (Korvalakki)	Four Winds Hat
Men’s Dress	Tunic with ribbon decoration	Black Gákti with trimming	Tunic with red ribbon & yellow stripe	Black/Grey Tunic	Influenced by Enontekiö
Accessories	Embroidered ribbons	Copper buttons	Copper buttons	Bead-embroidered Belt	Traditional silver buttons
Special Note	Shared style with Kautokeino (Norway)	Inari Sámi unique style	North Sámi style	Kolt (Distinct from Gákti)	Formed after 19th-century border closures

The Gákti remains a symbol of Sami identity, still used as formal attire for special occasions today. By respecting the culture of the Sami people, we can appreciate and honor their tradition and history.

　

Note: Because information readily available in Japanese about the Sami culture is limited, I will update this article with any further information as it becomes available.

　

References

• “THE SÁMI PEOPLE TRADITIONS IN TRANSITION” Veli-Pekka Lehtola 2004 translated by Linna Weber Müller-Wille UNIVERSITY OF ALASKA PRESS
• SÁMI DUODJI RY （https://www.samiduodji.com）2025.10.14 accessed
• “Traditional Sami Dresses” albuma duohta sápmelaš （https://albmaduohtasapmelas.tumblr.com）2025.10.14